Mt Kenya Climbing Safari: 8 Days, Mountain Climbing

Locations Visited:Mount Kenya

Description: "The NORTH FACE " standard route starts from Kami hut after Shiptons camp. If you are planning to get to the top, you have to take 7 to 8 days, including 2 days climbing. When you are doing North Face, you have to overnight at Firmin tower, either putting a tent or bivac outside.You don't need crampons, unless you want to traverse the gate of mist to Nelion.
The North face standard route starts from Shiptons Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs 2 hrs hike to the base of climbing. The start is Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling,Another Grade III then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there an easy donkey walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here. One up the Tower quite tricky about Grade V in a small gully not enough to fit in. The other is around the tower, easier but longer. After that you come to the knife edge you do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV pitch before you come to a traverse that leads you to the Shiptons notch. At the Shiptons notch rocks are quite lose and need to be handled with care. After finishing Shiptons notch, then reach Batian 5,199m. After reaching carefully the top, then abseil down; you do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb. It´s 23 pitches.

Day 1
Leave Nairobi at 8.00 am drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4hrs , arriving at 12.00, then proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate, picnic lunch will be provided.After lunch, follow the track uphill for 10 kms, forking left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690m. Dinner/overnight

Day 2
After breakfast, leave at 8.00 am, follow the directions for the direct route, until you reach the fork after one hour. The track becomes a path, and swings right and south round the head of a large valley, crossing several small streams to reach the crest of the ridge between the Otulili and Likii North Valleys. A walk of 3 to 4 hours to Liki North hut at 3,993m. Dinner/overnight.

Day 4
After breakfast at 9.00 a.m. ascend to Kami hut 4,600m which normally takes 2hrs. Dinner/overnight. [Kami hut is the base camp for climbers who are doing North Face]

Day 6
Wake up at 5.00 a.m., have tea and biscuits, then leave at 5.30 to the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour, this section is rocky and frozen scree. Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, then start climbing at 7.00 a.m., spending a night at Firmin Tower, (10 ropes of 50m). Dinner/overnight.

Day 6
From Firmin Tower continue rock climbing until you reach Batian at 5,199m, 12.00 midday, then abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton camp, dinner/overnight.

Day 7
After breakfast, ascend Simba col then down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria, following the Gorges Valley. It will take 7 hours to reach the bandas. Dinner/ overnight.

Day 8
After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to reach Bairunyi to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi.

Notes
Prices excludes: Technical Guide for Nelion and Batian which cost extra $400 per client Price Includes:Transport from and back to Nairobi,all the park fees,camping fees,Guides and potters,food in full board basis. Excludes:Climbing Equipment. Rucksack (must be provided for the porters by the clients, duffel bags are unacceptable)/mountain clothes/walking boots/tips/extras of personal nature/drinks/sleeping bags (for hire)/medical and evacuation insurance.

For the climbing equipment, you have to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.Clothing requirements:

Layered clothing is strongly recommended.
Clothing should be wool or silk, cotton fibre absorbs moister which can cause chills.
Upper body layers - sweaters, wool jackets, rain parka.
Outer Layers - rain coat, wind shirt, rain pants, wind pants.
Other needs-Mountain boots, 3 pairs of wool socks, gaiters, wool hats, woollen mittens, sunglasses.

The above can be hired

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